Cyndaquil

Materials
WW Yarn yellow , blue, red and gold (or a light orange)
G Hook
Black Embroidery thread
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle

NOTES:
Gauge is not very important as long as your hook and yarn choice results in a consistent stitch that is tight enough to prevent the stuffing from coming through.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicates the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.


HEAD and BODY:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 5: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 7-12: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 13: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 14: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 15: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)

Begin stuffing here, stuff firmly while shaping. Continue to stuff as you progress down the body.

Rnd 16: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 17: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (30)
Rnd 18: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (36)
Rnd 19-21: sc in each sc around (36)
Rnd 22: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (42)
Rnd 23-30: sc in each sc around (42)
Rnd 31: sc next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (36)
Rnd 32: sc next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 33: sc next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (24)
Rnd 34: sc next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 35: sc next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Rnd 36: dec over next 2 sc around (6)
F/O. Add any stuffing needed to finish shaping the body. Weave end through final round and gently pull to close opening. Secure and weave in ends.

SNOUT:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)
Rnd 3: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)
Rnd 4: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 5: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 8 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)
Rnd 6: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 10 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)
Rnd 7: sc in each sc around (14)
Rnd 8: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 12 sc, 2 sc in last sc (16)
Rnd 9: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 14 sc, 2 sc in last sc (18)
Rnd 10: sc in each sc around (18)
Rnd 11: 2 sc in each of next 2 sc, sc in each of next 14 sc, 2 sc in each of last 2 sc (22)
F/O. Stuff snout firmly to shape. Pin to front of head with ‘longer’ end close to the neck portion of the body. (see images for help with placement). Sew securely to head. Add any stuffing around the edges as you sew if you see the need for it to help the snout maintain its shape.

STRIPE:
(using blue)
Row 1: Ch 3, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next ch. (2)
Row 2: sc in both sc (2)
Row 3: 2 sc in each of sc across (4)
Row 4-6: sc in each sc across (4)
Row 7: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 2 sc, 2 sc in last sc (6)
Row 8-10: sc in each sc across (6)
Row 11: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, 2 sc in last sc (8)
Row 12: sc in each sc across (8)
Row 13: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 6 sc, 2 sc in last sc (10)
Row 14-24: sc in each sc across (10)
Row 25: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 8 sc, 2 sc in last sc (12)
Row 26-34: sc in each sc across (12)
Row 35: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 10 sc, 2 sc in last sc (14)
Row 36: sc in each sc across (14)
Row 37: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 12 sc, 2 sc in last sc (16)
Row 38: sc in each sc across (16)
Row 39: 2 sc in first sc, sc in each of next 14 sc, 2 sc in last sc (18)
Row 40-50: sc in each sc across (18)
Row 51: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each of next 14 sc, dec over last 2 sc (16)
Row 52: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each of next 12 sc, dec over last 2 sc (14)
Row 53: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each of next 10 sc, dec over last 2 sc (12)
Row 54: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each of next 8 sc, dec over last 2 sc (10)
Row 55: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each of next 6 sc, dec over last 2 sc (8)
Row 56: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each of next 4 sc, dec over last 2 sc (6)
Row 57: dec over first 2 sc, sc in each of next 2 sc, dec over last 2 sc (4)
F/O. Weave in ends.

ARMS (make 2):
Rnd 1: 4 sc in magic ring (4)
Rnd 2: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc (6)
Rnd 3: sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 2 sc, 2 sc in next sc (8)
Rnd 4: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc (10)
Rnd 5: sc in each sc around (10)
Rnd 6: sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc, sc in next 4 sc, 2 sc in next sc (12)
Begin Shoulder:
sc in next 6 sc, (leave remaining sc unworked) turn (6)
dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc across, turn (5)
dec over first 2 sc, sc in each remaining sc across (4)
F/O. Weave in ends. Stuff arm firmly while shaping.

LEGS (make 2):
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (12)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (18)
Rnd 4: sc in next 5 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (21)
Rnd 5-8: sc in each sc around (21)
Rnd 9: sc in next 5 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (18)
Rnd 10: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (12)
Begin stuffing here if you haven’t already. Stuff moderately firmly (you’ll need to be able to slightly flatten this part of the leg when sewing it to the body, so don’t over-stuff)
Rnd 11: dec over next 2 sc around (6)
F/O and add any stuffing needed to finish the shape. Do not close the opening.

FEET (make 2):
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring, join with slip stitch to first sc of round to form circle (6)
Rnd 2: In same sc as joining, ch1, sc, dc, sc; slip stitch in next sc
F/O. Weave in ends and sew the foot to the opening of the leg. Foot is sewn with round 1 over the opening, leaving rnd 2 ‘free’ for the ‘toes’

FLAMES:
RED flame (make 2)
The flames are made with a base, and randomly placed points. First, make your base which is more or less a ‘half circle’:

Row 1: Ch 2, 6 hdc in 2nd ch from hook. Turn (6)
Row 2: 2 hdc in each hdc across, turn (12)
Row 3: hdc in first hdc, 2 hdc in next hdc across , ending with 2 hdc in last stitch, turn (18)
Row 4: repeat row 3 (24)
Do not fasten off. Begin making the points. Add your points randomly from the sizes below. When you reach the end of your row, add whatever point will fit nicely there. Try to vary the sizes across the base, so that the effect is more like an ‘explosion’ rather than a contrived or patterned look.

The points are made as such, there are several different ‘sizes’ that I used. I tried several patterns of points, but they all looked too stiff and un-natural. I found that randomly adding the points gave a far nicer ‘explosion’ look. The different sizes of points I used are as follows:

1: Ch 5. Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in last ch. Skip 2 stitches on the base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

2: Ch 6. Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, hdc in next ch, dc in next ch, trbl in last ch. Skip 3 stitches on base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

3: Ch 8. Slip stitch in 2nd ch from hook, sc in each of next 2 chs, hdc in next ch, dc in each of next 2 chs, trbl in last ch. Skip three stitches on base and slip stitch to the next stitch.

Experiment with different random patterns of the points until you are happy with how it looks.

After making the last point, F/O and weave in ends. (the points will want to curl some, that’s normal and adds to the ‘effect’… but I did use an iron to ‘VERY GENTLY’ press the points with a little spray starch so that they wouldn’t curl too tightly. If you don’t have an iron that’s ok, you can just pull the points straight… they’ll curl back up, but if you pull them out several times, over time the points will relax and stay a good bit straighter.

GOLD flame (make 2)
Row 1: Ch 2, 6 sc in 2nd ch from hook. Turn (6)
Row 2: 2 sc in each sc across, turn (12)
Row 3: sc in first sc, 2 sc in next sc across , ending with 2 sc in last stitch, turn (18)

Here again, use the same points described above to create a random pattern on each of the Gold bases in the same manner as for the red ones. This is basically the same as the red flame, just smaller.

Place the 2 red flames together with ‘wrong’ sides to the inside, sew them together along the ‘domed’ base leaving the points free and the bottom ‘edge’ open. (just sew along the row 4 of the base)

Take one of the gold flames, and place in front of one side of the red flames (as shown in the pictures) and sew along the base around the domed part attaching it that side of the red flame. Repeat on the other side with the other gold flame.

FINAL ASSEMBLY:
Carefully pin the blue stripe to the body beginning at the tip of the nose pin along the snout, over the head (pulling slightly at the neck to keep it taught as you pin) then pin across the back to the bottom end of the body. Take care to keep it straight and taught across the head/body as you pin.

When you’re pleased with the position of the stripe, sew it carefully and securely removing the pins as you go, and making sure that you keep it taught, straight and even down the body.

Place the arms as shown on the front of the body (the ‘shoulder’ will allow you to place the arms facing forward instead of straight out. Pin to the body and adjust as needed. When you’re happy with how they look, sew them securely to the body.

Determine which leg goes on each side (making sure ‘toes’ face forward) and gently flatten the side of the leg that will be against the body. Pin to the body as shown in the pictures, adjust as needed. When you’re happy with the placement and position of the legs, sew them securely to the body.

Eyes are embroidered as shown using a back stitch. Nostrils are just a couple of whip stitches placed at the end of the nose as shown.

Place and pin the flames as shown down the center of the back of the body. You may wish to add a very small amount of stuffing inside the base (dome) of the red flames to give it a little more ‘size’, but that’s optional. Be certain the flames are centered and straight. Sew carefully and securely to the body, removing the pins as you go, and making sure it doesn’t get off–center as you sew.

Cyndaquil and Pokemon are copyright of Nintendo.
This pattern is an original pattern by Linda Potts (May 2010).

Mario Mushrooms!

Materials:
WW yarn in white, the colors you need for the tops (varies with the type of mushroom) and a tiny amount of black
G Hook
Fiberfill
Yarn Needle for weaving in ends

Notes: Gauge isn't important. Any size hook or yarn works here, but choice of yarn and hook will determine the finished size.

Numbers in ( ) at the end of each round or row indicate the total number of stitches that should be in that round or row.

Mushroom:
Beginning at the base with white:

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring (8)
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)
Rnd 3: sc in next sc, 2 sc in next sc around (24)
Rnd 4-7: sc in each sc around f/o white (24)
Rnd 8: Join the main color of the mushroom top, 2 sc in Front Loops Only of each sc crochet around (48)
Rnd 9: (working through both loops now) sc in each sc around (48)
Rnd 10: sc in next 3 sc, 2 sc in next sc around (60)
Rnd 11-13: sc in each sc around (60)
Rnd 14: sc in next 4 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (50)
Rnd 15: sc in each sc around (50)
Rnd 16: sc in next 3 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (40)
Rnd 17: sc in each sc around (40)

Begin stuffing here if you haven't already. It's important to stuff the mushroom fairly firmly, and shape it as you progress.

Rnd 18: sc in next 2 sc, dec over next 2 sc around (30)
Rnd 19: sc in next sc, dec over next 2 sc around (20)
Rnd 20: dec over next 2 sc around (10)

F/O leaving long tail. Using a chopstick or the back side of a large crohet hook, finish stuffing and shape the top. Using yarn needle weave the tail through the last round and pull to close.

Spots (make 5):
Using white (or alternate color):

Rnd 1: 8 sc in magic ring
Rnd 2: 2 sc in each sc around (16)

F/O and weave ends in on backside of disk.

Position spots with one centered on the top of the mushroom, and four equally spaced around the sides. Sew on. (I like to use sewing thread for these because it doesn't add any unsightly bulk to the spots)

Using black yarn, choose the face 'area' (between two of the side spots) and make a few whipstitches for each eye.

Do you believe games will eventually reach the point of being a completely immersive experience? Would you welcome or fear such disconnect from the real world?

To be honest i think we could. I mean we already came out with a 3DS which requires no glasses. I'm sure next to come is some sort of device that puts us into the game itself. I don't think I would mind as long as I could get out again. I don't want to be sucked in the game forever. Or be like those people on that movie the GAMER. Like a real world sims or secondlife! No thank you!

Ask me anything

Question from Formspring

Do you think female gamers who pose provocatively in their posted pictures are sexually objectifying themselves? Do you think such titillating imagery is a constructive step toward the advancement of female equality in gaming?

Good Question! First off I think that people who post anything in a provocative manner are looking for some sort of attention. its either because they know they look good and want that affirmation from others. Or maybe they are insecure and it makes them feel better to hear peoples comments. I do not think that it is necessary for women to post these kinds of images in order to further themselves in the gaming industry. But we all know that sex sells and unfortunately that is not going to change anytime soon. This is why companies hire "Booth Babes" to work at events. Even those most of these girls know nothing about the game or product they are selling, its still a good image for the company because... sex sells! As far as female equality goes in gaming, its just not there yet in a competitive manner. I know several women that are exceptional competitors but most tournaments are team based. It is very hard to find an all female team who can take out the MLG top teams. I am not talking about scrims or anything like that. I mean an actual MLG Tournament where a female team comes in first place. I know several other females who do exceptionally well at solo games like Guitar Hero. I honestly think in any industry where your face is out there, you have to have an appealing image. If you are not marketable then you will not get the sponsorship you are looking for. For guys its not as complicated. In a perfect world we would all be judged by our talents alone and not what size pants we wear or how shiny our hair is! Unfortunately that is not the case and women are still subjected to a certain image. I wish they wouldn't post pictures that were too revealing because if you don't have talent it doesn't matter how HOT you are.

Live Streaming

I have had several people ask me about live streaming and how to do it. So, here is a little step by step guide as on how to set it up :)

1. First off you need to have a live streaming account. For these instructions I will talk about Justin.tv since that is the site that I use. Simply go to Justin.tv and set up an account. Voila, you are now able to live stream.

2. Internet is very important in the ability to live stream. You want to head on over to speedtest.net and check your speed. Upload is the one you will be looking at. If you have less than 5mbps you will not be able to live stream in HD. If you have less than 3mbps then you will not be able to live stream with out lag issues! If you are finding that your speed is lower than you expected, contact your ISP and upgrade your plan. I pay about $120 a month for my internet alone but I have an 11.7 mbps upload speed.

3. PC! This one is kind of important as well. You want to make sure you have a good processor. I recommend at least a 2.0ghz. If not then your HD will not look as good. You also want to have enough memory if you plan on editing and recoding videos. The nice thing about Justin.tv is that it records your videos for you. You can also highlight videos and upload them to youtube!

4. A capture card. There are only two that I recommend. If you have a PC and are looking for an internal cap card, then you need to get a Black Magic Intensity Pro!

Hands down its the best card out there for HD streaming. You simply plug in the HDMI cable from your xbox to the BMIP and then another HDMI from the BMIP to your television. This card does not have HD cables so if your used to using those then you need to get a different Cap Card.
For the external type, I recommend the BlitzBox. You can use the HD Cables for input and output and hook it up to the PC using USB!

This device has a capture card inside and its very easy to set up.

5. Software!! There are so many different kinds of software out there. Justin.tv works really well with Adobe Media encoder and you can DownLoad that for free! Another program that lets you customize more is Wirecast. I have seen wirecast run from $300 to $800 depending on where you get it from. I personally use Wirecast because I can throw in splash screens, add in video clips and text with just a click of a button. You can also set up your live stream to show the game play, your web cam and add in your mic so people can hear you!

I hope that helps! I will be posting the setting for the adobe media encoder and how to set up your mic in a later Blog :) If you have any questions plz leave a comment. xoxo

10 Things

Ok so here are 10 things you didn't know about me.

10. My hair is naturally Blonde (Level 7 for those cosmologists)
9. I have OCD
8. Im actually better at Halo then I pretend to be :p
7. I cant stand nasty movies! skin falling off is so gross.
6. I have read every single Nancy Drew book ever written.
5. I used to be a cop.. and in the Army
5. I love to sing.
4. I am super shy and that comes off as bitchy :(
3. I have been told I intimidate people.
2. I snowboard (I <3 my burton 155)
1. My IQ is the same as Einsteins.